Lomtalay Thai Restaurant, The Surin, Pansea Beach, Phuket, Thailand

Words by Kirsten Durward

Photos by the Yum List (Monica Tindall)

For our first evening in Phuket we delight in unobstructed panoramic views of the Andaman Sea. We take in the softly sinking sun, the fading blues and greys of the evening light a panacea to the eyes, all senses gently stimulated by the soft sea breeze and the gentle whisper of the movement of the waves.The spacious pavilion like structure of Lomtalay echoes the natural theme and soft colours that epitomize this gentle location, and we’re happy to be surrounded by verdant foliage, open to the elements. ‘Boy, I love to be outside!’ exclaims Mon and I cannot but agree.  

Classical Thai Music Duo

We like to ensure we give you originality so we peruse the Signature Cocktail (THB 380) menu for inspiration and settle on a spicy and a sweety-sour. My Andaman Sea arrives turquoise bright in a sexy curved glass. A combination of Light Rum, Amaretto, Blue Curacao, Pineapple Juice and lime is simple to slip on and I know it won’t overpower the the subtleties of the Thai food to come.

Monica’s Asian Mule replicates the ginger beer look of the original Moscow Mule, but the taste is herby and light without the traditional ‘kick’. Be sure to tip the passion fruit into the drink as that’s where the Cointreau is stashed and stir it well to bring out the gentle flavours of coriander, chili and lemon. 

Our first dish is Thod Man Pla (deep fried fish cake with cucumber relish). As it arrives, an inviting scent of coriander and lime floats up on the evening air. It’s a firm juicy patty with a good nip of chili that warms the tongue. A fresh coriander cucumber chili salad is enhanced with just a touch of crushed peanut. We muse that Thai food is always a pleasure with the delicate balance between sweet, sour and spicy enhanced with fresh herbs.  

Tom Kha Thalay (seafood in coconut milk soup with Thai herbs) ranks as one of my favourite global tastes. This one is a very mild version, adulterated for western tastes, and will be easy on the uninitiated tourist palate. ‘Ah!  Coconut Milk!’ signs Mon… Below the milky surface lies an opulence of seafood, a big juicy mussel imbued with coriander bumps up against firm loops of squid and a pink prawn for plucking by the tail.

Yaam Tuna Nam Tok (grilled and sliced tuna steak with toasted and grounded rice in spicy lime vinaigrette). This is more of the traditional Thai taste with thick tuna slices dressed in a fresh coriander and onion salad and a juicy blend of chili and lime, while the ground rice adds a coconut like texture. 

Goong Lei Seur Priew Waan (lightly fried tiger prawn with sweet and sour sauce). We ooh over the size of the prawns in this pretty dish. Be sure not to miss the gentle dollop of passion fruit or the sticky sweet and sour vegetables for added moisture.

Paad Fhuk Tong Poo (wok fried pumpkin with crab meat and oyster sauce). Soft threads of crab meat are interwoven through chunks of pumpkin. Monica of course is happy to see vegetables being served.

The Seafood Set Menu is served with a plentiful bamboo steamer of Kao Suay (steamed jasmine rice).

For dessert we decide on the light fresh sorbet option and share a spoonful of flavor packed passionfruit with bright strawberry. Little chunks of fruit indicate the homemade nature of the ice. We muse on the texture and taste of the latticed adornment, which seems to feature coconut, pineapple and a tinge of nuttiness. 

Lomtalay is open for dinner between 6:30 and 10:30 pm.

Reason to visit:  The delightful fresh airy location with the sound of the sea in your ears.

Lomtalay Thai Restaurant

The Surin

Pansea Beach

118 Moo 3

Choengtalay

Talang, Phuket

Thailand

+66 7621 580 2

hotel@thesurinphuket.com

http://www.thesurinphuket.com/